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How should static and flowing water pressure be compared?
A pressure-reducing valve can be set to a reasonable static pressure and still struggle to deliver flow, but a low reading under flow doesn’t prove the valve itself is the problem. How do you compare static and flowing readings at the same gauge point so the difference is meaningful?
I’d also want to know whether the drop shows up at several fixtures or only one. What pressure range should a plumber aim to keep within for the home’s plumbing, and when does the pattern point toward adjustment versus a valve that needs further diagnosis or replacement?
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2 replies
Take the static reading at a chosen gauge point with fixtures off and the pressure settled. Then leave the gauge in that exact spot and run a repeatable demand, such as one specified fixture at a consistent setting, and record the flowing pressure while it is running. Note which fixture and conditions you used; changing the gauge point or demand makes the readings harder to compare.
A common U.S. residential reference is about 40–80 psi, with many homes set around 50–60 psi. That’s a general range, not a substitute for local code or the requirements of the particular plumbing system; a plumber can confirm what applies in a given home.
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