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Rusty water heater woes—repair or replace?

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Posts: 5
(@joshuam18)
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"Have you checked under the tank for any actual dripping or moisture yet?"

Good call on this. Had a similar scare last year—rust spots everywhere, thought I was doomed. Turned out it was just surface rust from condensation. Swapped out the anode rod (which was basically a rusty toothpick at that point) and it's been solid since. But yeah, pricing new heaters lately gave me sticker shock...might as well be buying gold bars instead of tanks these days.

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Posts: 4
(@jameswoodworker)
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Yeah, good thinking checking under the tank first. I had a similar issue a couple years back—thought for sure I was looking at a full replacement. Turned out it was just the pressure relief valve slowly leaking and causing rust streaks down the side. Quick fix, thankfully. But you're right about prices lately...I browsed around just in case, and man, when did water heaters become luxury items?

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sailing_james
Posts: 3
(@sailing_james)
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"Turned out it was just the pressure relief valve slowly leaking and causing rust streaks down the side. Quick fix, thankfully."

Good catch on the pressure relief valve—I had a similar scare once, thought my tank was done for sure. Mine ended up being a minor leak around the drain valve instead. Took me longer to find the right wrench than to actually fix it, lol. But yeah, prices have gone nuts lately. I browsed replacements out of curiosity, and I swear they're double what I paid 10 years ago. Makes you wonder if they're adding Bluetooth or something ridiculous to justify the hike...

Anyway, definitely worth checking all valves and fittings thoroughly before biting the bullet on a replacement. Rust streaks can be deceptive, but they're often just surface-level symptoms. Good luck—hope it's a cheap fix!

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Posts: 3
(@vintage_sam8552)
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Good point about checking valves first—I've seen plenty of folks jump straight to replacing the whole tank when it's usually something minor. Pressure relief valves are notorious for slow leaks, especially if they're older or haven't been tested regularly. One thing I'd add is to make sure you test the valve properly after replacing it. Lift the lever slightly and let it snap back into place a couple times to ensure it's seating correctly. Sometimes debris or mineral buildup can prevent a good seal, even on a new valve.

Also, keep an eye on the anode rod if you're seeing rust streaks. A worn-out anode rod can accelerate corrosion inside the tank, and replacing it every few years can significantly extend your heater's lifespan. It's a cheap part and pretty straightforward to swap out—just make sure you shut off power and water first, drain a bit from the tank to relieve pressure, and use a breaker bar or impact wrench if it's stubborn. Better safe than sorry with these things...

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gaming315
Posts: 1
(@gaming315)
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Solid advice on the anode rod—I can't count how many times I've seen tanks replaced prematurely just because nobody bothered checking it. One thing I'd mention though, is that sometimes those rods can be a real pain to remove, especially if they've never been swapped out before. Had one last month that was practically welded in place by corrosion...ended up needing a torch and some serious elbow grease. Still, totally worth the effort considering the cost difference between a rod and a whole new heater.

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