Definitely ran into this when I replaced a section of pipe in my basement last year. Here’s what I learned the hard way:
- Swapped in a brass fitting between copper and galvanized, thinking it’d be fine. Nope—green gunk everywhere in six months.
- Dielectric unions did help, but only after I redid the joint and actually tightened everything properly (first time was a bit sloppy).
- Water here is super hard—honestly, I wish I’d just stuck with all copper to begin with. Mixing metals seems like asking for trouble unless you’re really careful.
- If you’re trying to save some cash, check local salvage yards for solid copper fittings. Found a few that way and they’ve held up great.
Just my two cents... sometimes cutting corners ends up costing more down the line.
Mixing metals seems like asking for trouble unless you’re really careful. - If you’re trying to save some cash, check local salvage yards for solid copper fittings.
Mixing metals is always a gamble, especially with hard water. I’ve seen that “green gunk” you mentioned—once it starts, it’s tough to stop. Honestly, I’m not convinced dielectric unions are a cure-all; they help, but if the joint isn’t perfect or the water’s aggressive, issues creep back in. I get wanting to save money, but salvaged copper can be hit or miss too. If you’re going to the trouble, sometimes just biting the bullet and buying new copper is worth the peace of mind. Cutting corners on plumbing feels like tempting fate...
Yeah, mixing metals is one of those things that sounds fine until you’re cleaning up a mess under the sink at 2am. I tried using salvaged copper once—looked okay, but the wall thickness was way off and it didn’t solder right. If you’re already elbows-deep, new copper’s not a bad call. Sometimes the “cheap” route costs more in the long run…
I get where you’re coming from—mixing metals can definitely be a headache, especially if you’re dealing with older plumbing. That said, I wouldn’t rule out salvaged copper entirely. Sometimes the issue’s less about the material and more about prep work. If the wall thickness is off, sure, that’s a nonstarter, but in my experience, cleaning and reaming the ends thoroughly can make a world of difference with solder joints.
Sometimes the “cheap” route costs more in the long run…
That’s true in a lot of cases, but it depends on what you’re salvaging and how you’re using it. For example, I’ve had decent luck reusing copper from demo jobs for short runs or repairs behind walls where matching aesthetics isn’t a concern. It does take extra time to inspect for pitting or corrosion, though.
New copper is definitely more predictable, but with prices these days... I get why folks look for alternatives. Just comes down to whether you’ve got time to double-check your materials or need peace of mind at 2am under the sink.
Sometimes the “cheap” route costs more in the long run…
That’s what I keep hearing from the old-timers at work, and honestly, I get it. I’ve seen some “budget” repairs turn into full-on disasters because someone tried to save a few bucks on pipe. But is there a trick to spotting good salvaged copper? Like, if it looks clean and isn’t pitted, is that enough? Or am I missing something that’ll bite me later? I’m always worried about hidden corrosion or weak spots. Maybe I’m just paranoid after seeing one too many leaks at 3am...