When is it time to swap out old pipes?

Honestly, unless you’re seeing green corrosion, pinhole leaks, or major pressure drops, 60s copper can last a long time - especially if your water isn’t super acidic. I get the hesitation with PEX; rodents are a legit concern in some areas. Swapping out just the bad sections is pretty common. Just keep an eye on joints and anywhere the pipe’s exposed to air or moisture... that’s usually where problems start. No need to gut everything if it’s still solid.

Yeah, spot on about not gutting everything if the copper’s still holding up. A few things I’d add from what I’ve seen in the field:

- Water chemistry is huge. Even if you don’t have acidic water, high chlorine can eat away at copper over decades. If you’re on city water, might be worth checking a recent water quality report.
- Joints and elbows are always the first to go, especially if they weren’t cleaned properly before soldering. I’ve seen pipes from the 50s with perfect straight runs but every joint is green and crusty.
- PEX is great for quick repairs, but yeah, rodents can be a nightmare. I’ve pulled out chewed PEX in crawlspaces more than once... If you go that route, try to keep it off the ground and out of reach where possible.
- One thing people forget: old copper can get brittle. If you’re doing any work nearby (like demo or drilling), be careful not to knock or stress it - sometimes that’s all it takes for a pinhole to show up.

Swapping sections as needed makes sense unless you’re already opening up big walls or planning a reno anyway. No need to fix what isn’t broken, but definitely keep an eye out for those early warning signs.

That’s a good point about the joints - mine are definitely the weak spots too. I’ve always wondered, though, how much does age really matter if you’re not seeing leaks or corrosion? My house is pushing 60 years and the copper looks fine in most places, but I keep hearing mixed things about “lifespan.” Is it just a wait-and-see game, or do folks actually swap pipes just based on age?

“Is it just a wait-and-see game, or do folks actually swap pipes just based on age?”

Honestly, most people don’t rip out copper just because it’s old, especially if there’s no visible corrosion or leaks. I’ve seen 70-year-old copper still going strong, but I’ve also had to patch up 30-year-old lines that were pitted and leaking everywhere. It’s not always about the calendar.

One thing I’d check is water quality - high acidity or minerals can eat pipes from the inside out, even if the outside looks fine. Ever cut out a section and peeked inside? Sometimes you’ll find green gunk or pinhole leaks starting where you least expect. Any weird taste or discoloration in your water lately? That can be an early sign things are going south.

Curious if you’ve ever had to deal with low water pressure or random debris in your faucets? That’s usually when folks start thinking about a full swap, even if the pipes look okay at first glance.

If you’re managing rentals, here’s how I handle it: First, check for leaks or green corrosion at joints - if you see that, it’s time to act. Next, run the water and look for pressure drops or weird color. If tenants mention metallic taste or flakes, that’s a red flag. I don’t swap pipes just because they’re old, but if repairs start piling up or you’re getting complaints, it’s usually cheaper long-term to just replace the whole run. Piecemeal fixes add up fast.

I'd separate the condition of the pipes from the lead question. Lead in drinking water can't be reliably spotted by taste, smell or appearance, so a sweet taste wouldn't diagnose it and normal-looking water wouldn't rule it out. A certified laboratory test, with sampling instructions from the lab or local water authority, is the useful check.

For deciding how much pipe to replace, I'd want the actual materials, leak history and inspection findings alongside the water results. Age and rusty-looking water are reasons to investigate, but they don't by themselves tell you whether a few repairs or a full replacement is the right answer.

I get where you’re coming from, but I don’t always jump to a full replacement unless there’s a clear safety risk or the repairs are getting out of hand. Sometimes, especially in older buildings, you can go years with just minor fixes if you stay on top of inspections and water testing. I’ve had a couple places where the original copper pipes are still going strong after 60+ years - just needed the occasional joint tightened or a section swapped. Full repipes are expensive and disruptive, so I try to weigh the hassle and cost against the actual risk before pulling the trigger.

That’s a solid approach. I’ve seen plenty of old copper hold up just fine with regular checks and minor fixes - sometimes the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” mindset really does pay off. Full repipes are a last resort for me too, unless you’re seeing major leaks or corrosion everywhere. Staying proactive with inspections and water quality goes a long way.

I get where you’re coming from. I was worried when I moved in because the inspector flagged the copper as “aging,” but we’ve only had to do one minor patch in three years. I do keep an eye on water pressure and check for greenish spots, just in case. Honestly, I’m not in a rush to rip everything out unless I see real trouble. That said, I do wonder if hard water might speed up the need for a bigger fix...

Hard water is the sneaky villain in my house. I used to think copper pipes were basically invincible, but then I started noticing weird blue-green crusties on the joints. Turns out, our water is basically liquid rock. I got one of those cheap test kits and, yeah, off the charts. My plumber buddy swears hard water eats through copper faster, especially at the bends and where the water sits overnight.

I’m with you on not jumping to replace everything unless it’s a real mess. The waste alone gives me hives. But I did put in a filter to help with the minerals - mostly so my kettle doesn’t look like a science experiment. If you’re seeing green spots, that’s probably your early warning system. Just don’t ignore any pinhole leaks... those things go from “meh” to “why is there a puddle under my wall?” way too fast.

Anyway, old pipes aren’t all bad - just gotta keep an eye out and maybe give ‘em a little TLC now and then.

Honestly, those blue-green crusties are like the canary in the coal mine for copper pipes. I had a similar thing going on in my old place - ended up with one of those tiny leaks right at a joint behind the bathroom wall. Total pain to fix. Out of curiosity, how old are your pipes? I always wonder if age or water quality does more damage over time...

That blue-green stuff is a dead giveaway, isn’t it? I’ve seen it way too many times - usually means the copper’s starting to pit from the inside out. In my experience, water quality is the real culprit more often than age. I’ve worked on 30-year-old pipes that looked brand new because the water was soft and low in minerals, but then I’ve also had to replace pipes less than 10 years old that were just eaten up by acidic water.

Thing is, you can baby those pipes all you want, but if your water’s got a lot of dissolved oxygen or is slightly acidic, it’ll chew through copper way faster than most folks expect. Ever had your water tested for pH or mineral content? Sometimes a simple filter or neutralizer can buy you years before you have to think about a full repipe. Curious if anyone’s actually swapped out copper for PEX or something else after seeing those crusties...

You nailed it about water quality being the real villain here. People always blame “old pipes,” but I’ve seen copper lines in 40-year-old houses that look pristine, and then you get a call for pinhole leaks in a place built in 2012. It’s almost always the water chemistry - low pH, high chloramines, or even just too much dissolved CO2. That blue-green patina is basically copper crying for help.

I’m pretty opinionated on this: if you’re seeing crusties or pinholes, don’t waste money patching up leaks one by one. That’s just playing whack-a-mole. PEX is a solid upgrade, especially if your water’s aggressive. It doesn’t corrode, it’s flexible (which makes retrofits way less invasive), and it handles freeze-thaw cycles better than copper ever could. Only thing I’d watch out for is making sure you use the right fittings - brass can still have issues if your water’s got high chloride content.

One thing I’m curious about - has anyone actually tried those “pipe lining” solutions? The epoxy coatings that claim to seal up the inside of old copper? I’ve seen mixed results, and honestly, I’m skeptical about how long they last compared to just biting the bullet and swapping to PEX or even CPVC in some cases.

Also, not enough folks realize how much municipal water treatment can change over time. You might have had perfect water for decades, then they switch disinfectants or source water and suddenly your pipes start failing left and right. Anyone else run into that? Sometimes it feels like you’re chasing a moving target...

Had a similar situation a few years back - pipes in my ‘90s place started leaking after the city switched to chloramines.

“You might have had perfect water for decades, then they switch disinfectants or source water and suddenly your pipes start failing left and right.”

Epoxy lining’s kind of a mixed bag, honestly. I get why folks try it, but I’ve seen too many jobs where it just kicked the can down the road. You patch one spot, then the next weak point goes.

“chasing chemistry changes is exhausting.”

“Temporary fixes just seem to invite more late-night leaks in my experience.”

That’s been my experience too. Epoxy lining sounds great on paper, but it’s tough to know if you’re just masking bigger issues underneath. I get why folks want to avoid a full repipe - cost, hassle, all that - but if the pipes are already showing pinhole leaks or heavy corrosion, how much time are you really buying? I’ve seen some pretty gnarly failures after a patch job. Curious if anyone’s had long-term luck with lining, though. Maybe there’s a sweet spot I’m missing?

I’ve wondered the same thing about lining. I had a building where we tried it, and two years later we were back to chasing leaks - felt like we just delayed the inevitable. Has anyone actually seen epoxy hold up for, say, five or ten years? Or is it just a band-aid for pipes that are already on their last legs? I keep thinking maybe there’s a way to tell which systems are good candidates for lining versus just biting the bullet and repiping... but I haven’t cracked that code yet.

I get where you’re coming from. I’ll be honest, though - I had epoxy lining done in my 60s ranch about seven years ago and (knock on wood) it’s held up fine so far.

“Has anyone actually seen epoxy hold up for, say, five or ten years?”

I’ve heard the same thing - if the pipe’s already Swiss cheese, lining’s just lipstick on a pig. Did your plumber do a camera inspection first? I’m curious how folks decide when it’s worth patching versus just biting the bullet and replacing everything.

If your pipes look like they’ve been through a cheese grater, lining’s not going to save the day. I always tell folks - step one is a camera inspection. No guessing games. If you’re seeing pinholes, rust flakes, or sections that look more air than metal, patching is just a temporary band-aid.

Here’s how I usually break it down:
1. Camera scope the whole line.
2. If it’s just one or two spots, and the rest looks solid, you might get away with spot repairs or lining.
3. If the pipe walls are thin everywhere, or you’re getting leaks in multiple places, replacement’s probably the only thing that’ll keep you sane (and dry).

Had a call last month where someone kept patching the same old cast iron - by the third leak in six months, even their dog was sick of plumbers in the house. Sometimes you just gotta rip off the band-aid (and half your basement ceiling) and do it right. It hurts up front, but it beats mopping up mystery puddles every weekend...