Swapping to braided stainless is the way to go—copper’s just asking for trouble over time, especially if it gets bumped or kinked. I did the same thing last year after a pinhole leak, and yeah, $40-50 in parts is about right if you’re handy. I’d rather spend a bit more upfront than deal with soggy drywall or warped floors down the line.
I’m with you on the shutoff valve. If you don’t have one, it’s a no-brainer upgrade. Makes maintenance and emergencies way less stressful. I do a quick check for drips every few months, but I’ll admit, I did a pressure test once after a particularly bad leak just to be sure everything was tight. Probably overkill, but it helped me sleep better that week.
One thing I’d add—if you’re running the line through cabinets, make sure there aren’t any sharp edges rubbing on the hose. A little foam pipe insulation goes a long way. Learned that after a friend’s line wore through and flooded his kitchen... not a fun cleanup.
Stainless lines are definitely the safer bet—copper always ends up leaking at the worst possible time. I usually see folks skip the foam padding, but it really does help if you’ve got tight cabinet corners. One thing I’d add: don’t cheap out on the shutoff valve either. The $8 ones are just trouble waiting to happen. Spend a little more and you’ll thank yourself later.
don’t cheap out on the shutoff valve either. The $8 ones are just trouble waiting to happen.
Can’t agree more. I once tried to save a buck and ended up with a kitchen floor that doubled as an indoor pool at 2am—nothing like mopping in your pajamas. Stainless lines and decent valves, every time. The foam padding’s underrated too; skinned my knuckles enough to learn that lesson...
nothing like mopping in your pajamas
Been there—except mine was at 5am and I had to explain to my kid why the kitchen was “raining.” Here’s my quick checklist for anyone tackling an ice maker fix: 1) Shut off the water at a solid valve (not the $8 special), 2) Use braided stainless lines, 3) Pad those sharp cabinet edges or your hands will pay. Skipping any of those steps is just asking for a mess... or a tetanus shot.
Solid checklist—honestly, more people should think about the valve quality before they’re ankle-deep in water. I’ve seen way too many of those cheap saddle valves fail at the worst possible time. Stainless braided lines are a must, but I’d add: double-check the compression fittings. Sometimes folks overtighten and end up with a slow leak that’s even sneakier than a full-on flood.
Padding those cabinet edges is underrated advice. I’ve got the scars to prove it—one slip and you’re digging out a splinter or worse. I’d also throw in: keep a towel handy under the connection point when you’re swapping lines. Even if you think you’ve drained the line, there’s always that last bit of water waiting to surprise you.
Curious—did you end up replacing the whole ice maker assembly or just the valve? Sometimes it’s just a $20 solenoid, but other times you’re looking at a full $200+ job, especially if the board’s fried. I’ve seen folks spend more on labor than parts, which always feels rough when it’s something as basic as an ice maker.
Anyway, props for tackling it yourself. Most people panic and call for help the second water hits the floor. It’s not glamorous work, but you definitely learn fast after your first 5am “rainstorm.”
