Yeah, push-fit’s been a lifesaver for me too, especially when you’re wedged behind a cylinder and can barely see what you’re doing. I get the “fast food” comparison, but honestly, if you prep the pipe right—clean cut, deburred, mark your insertion depth—they’re solid. Compression joints are great but I’ve definitely mangled a few olives in my time... and nothing’s more annoying than tracking down a slow drip because you overtightened. Horses for courses, really. Just gotta know your fittings and trust your prep.
Yeah, I hear you on the compression joints—those olives can be a pain. I’ve definitely overtightened a few and ended up with leaks that took ages to find. Push-fit’s been my go-to for tight spots too, especially when you’re half upside-down behind the tank and just want it done. Still, I get a bit nervous about using them in places where I can’t easily check for leaks later... maybe that’s just me being paranoid.
Out of curiosity, has anyone tried those newer plastic push-fits on old copper pipe? I had mixed luck—one held fine, but another started weeping after a couple weeks. Wondering if it’s just my prep or if there’s a trick to mixing materials.
Out of curiosity, has anyone tried those newer plastic push-fits on old copper pipe? I had mixed luck—one held fine, but another started weeping after a couple weeks. Wondering if it’s just my prep or if there’s a trick to mixing materials.
I’ve run into the same thing with push-fits on older copper. In my experience, the biggest issue is the condition of the pipe itself. If there’s any pitting, paint residue, or even slight out-of-round from years of knocks and bends, those plastic fittings just don’t seal as well as they do on new stuff. I always end up spending more time cleaning and deburring than I’d like—sometimes even hitting it with some fine wire wool to get rid of oxidation.
One thing I’ve noticed: if the copper’s got any greenish corrosion or is slightly oval (which happens more than you’d think), the push-fit can start weeping after a bit, especially if there’s any movement in the pipework. Compression joints are more forgiving in that sense, but yeah, overtightening is a real risk. I’ve cracked a few olives myself over the years.
I’m still not 100% sold on using push-fits in places where you can’t keep an eye on them. Maybe that’s just old habits dying hard, but I’ve seen enough hidden leaks to be wary. Have you ever tried using pipe inserts with copper? Some brands recommend it even though it feels redundant—wondering if that actually helps or just adds another variable.
Curious if anyone else has had better luck with certain brands of push-fit on old copper? Or maybe there’s a prep trick I’m missing...
I had a weird one last year where a push-fit held for months on some old 15mm copper, then started leaking right after I moved the pipe slightly to fit an access panel. Turned out the pipe was just barely oval from years of knocks behind the wall. Cleaned it up and swapped to a compression joint—no drama since. Never tried inserts on copper, though... always felt like overkill, but maybe there's something to it. Some of those old pipes just seem cursed for sealing, no matter how much you clean them.
Compression joints are definitely more forgiving on old copper, but I wouldn’t write off push-fit entirely. The trick is making sure the pipe’s truly round—sometimes you need to run a re-rounding tool over it, especially if it’s been battered behind a wall for decades. Inserts on copper aren’t standard, but I’ve seen them help in borderline cases where the pipe’s just a bit too soft or thin. Not always necessary, but sometimes worth a shot if you’re stuck chasing leaks that won’t quit.
