You mentioned the relief valve dripping; did you end up replacing it, or just free it up? Sometimes those stick and then won’t seal again, even after you wiggle them.
That’s a good point about the relief valve. I’ve seen a few where folks just try to “exercise” the lever and hope for the best, but if it keeps dripping after that, I’d swap it out. They’re not expensive and it’s a safety thing anyway.
How long did your last anode rod actually last before you noticed issues? I’m always surprised how fast they can go in hard water areas…
My last anode rod barely made it three years before it was totally eaten away—hard water here just chews them up. I check it every year now, but honestly, by the time I notice any hot water smell or discoloration, it’s usually already too late. As for the relief valve, I tried the wiggle trick once and it just kept weeping, so I replaced it. Not worth messing around when it comes to leaks or safety stuff.
As for the relief valve, I tried the wiggle trick once and it just kept weeping, so I replaced it. Not worth messing around when it comes to leaks or safety stuff.
You did the right thing swapping out that relief valve. Once they start weeping, you’re just asking for trouble if you don’t replace them. I’ve seen folks try to “fix” a leaky one with Teflon tape or by cranking it tighter, but that’s just a shortcut to a flooded basement.
On the anode rod—three years in hard water isn’t unusual, but you might want to look into powered anode rods. They cost a bit more upfront, but they don’t get eaten away like magnesium or aluminum ones. If you’re sticking with standard rods, here’s what I tell people:
1. Check every 12 months, but don’t wait for smell or color changes—by then, the tank’s already suffering.
2. Flush the tank once or twice a year to get rid of sediment. That’ll help both the rod and the heating element last longer.
3. If your water’s really brutal, consider a water softener or at least a sediment filter before the heater.
It’s not always cheap, but it’s cheaper than replacing a whole heater early...
I’ve had tenants try to “fix” relief valves with duct tape before—never ends well. I’m with you, just swap it and move on. On the anode rods, I’ve tried powered ones in a couple units, but honestly, I’m not convinced they’re worth the extra cost unless your water’s really chewing through the standard rods. Anyone actually seen a big difference in tank life with those? Or is it just marketing hype? I keep going back to flushing the tank as the best bang for your buck, but maybe I’m missing something...
Title: Keeping your water heater running longer without breaking the bank
Duct tape on a relief valve... that’s a new one for me. I’ve seen folks try to “fix” leaks with chewing gum before, but at least that’s biodegradable, right? Yeah, just swap the valve and save yourself the headache (and potential indoor swimming pool).
On the powered anode rods, I’m kinda with you. Gave ‘em a shot in a couple of my older rentals. Didn’t really notice any major difference—maybe a little less sediment, but nothing that justified the price tag. Unless you’re in an area with really nasty water, I feel like it’s just another thing to maintain (and for tenants to unplug when they need an outlet for their air fryer).
Flushing the tank is still king in my book. Takes what, 20 minutes if you’re not fighting with a stubborn drain valve? I’ve had tanks last 10+ years with just regular flushes and swapping out the anode every so often. The only real “upgrade” I’ve seen pay off is putting in a ball valve instead of those cheap plastic ones for draining—makes life easier and you don’t end up with a broken handle and a face full of hot water.
Only time I saw a powered rod make a difference was in a place with well water that could eat through a standard rod in under a year. Otherwise, I’d rather spend the money on pizza and just keep up with the basics.