Pond liner hack’s not a bad move in a pinch—definitely sturdier than the stock pans, like you said. I hear you on the shifting, though. Those things never want to stay put, especially if the floor isn’t perfectly level.
- Using old tiles to wedge it is clever. Not pretty, but hey, function over form when water’s involved.
- This part jumped out at me:
Just a heads-up: check local code if you’re renting out, some inspectors aren’t fans of DIY liners.
That’s a big one. Codes can be all over the place, and sometimes what seems like a solid fix just won’t fly with an inspector. I’ve seen people get dinged for way less.
- If anyone else tries this, make sure the liner actually drains somewhere safe. Had a neighbor who thought he was set, but the “fix” just pooled water under his subfloor... not ideal.
- Temporary fixes are fine, but I always try to keep an eye on anything that could turn into a bigger headache later. Water damage sneaks up fast.
Props for getting a pro in when you could. Sometimes DIY is just about buying time until you can do it right.
Honestly, I get the point about codes being all over the place, but sometimes it feels like inspectors are just looking for reasons to fail you. I mean,
—that’s been my experience too. When my heater leaked last winter, I tried a “temporary” fix with a heavy-duty tarp and some bricks. Not pretty, but it held up until I could get someone out. The thing is, if you’re careful and keep an eye on it, these hacks can work for a while. Maybe not ideal for rentals, but for your own place? Sometimes you gotta do what works in the moment.“sometimes what seems like a solid fix just won’t fly with an inspector”
I get where you’re coming from—sometimes it really does feel like inspectors are just waiting to ding you for something minor. But here’s the thing: a “temporary” fix like a tarp and bricks might hold for a bit, but water heaters can go from a slow leak to a full-on flood in no time. I’ve seen basements trashed because someone thought they could stretch a hack for “just another week.”
“if you’re careful and keep an eye on it, these hacks can work for a while.”
Maybe, but leaks have a way of getting worse when you least expect it. Plus, if there’s any electrical nearby, you’re rolling the dice. I’m not saying every code makes sense, but most of them are there because someone learned the hard way. If it’s your own place and you’re willing to take the risk, that’s your call—but I’d always push for at least shutting off the water supply and power to the heater until it’s fixed properly. A little inconvenience beats coming home to ankle-deep water or worse.
- Totally get the urge to just patch it and keep moving—sometimes you just want to avoid a big project or expense.
- That said, I’ve tried the “just for now” fixes and, yeah, they work… until they don’t. Had a leak turn into a full-on mess once, and trust me, drying out insulation is not fun.
- If you’re going the hack route, at least check for drips daily and keep towels or a bucket handy. Maybe not eco-perfect, but better than wasting gallons if it bursts.
- Props for trying to make it work in the short term. Just don’t let it drag on too long—replacing a heater beats replacing drywall and flooring.
Been there, done that with the “just patch it and hope for the best” approach. Sometimes you just don’t have the time or money for a full replacement, especially if it’s not gushing everywhere yet. But honestly, I’ve seen way too many folks let it ride a little too long, thinking they’re saving themselves hassle, and then end up with water creeping under their floors or behind walls. That’s when it gets ugly (and expensive).
If you’re going to try a quick fix, I’d say keep a close eye on the pressure relief valve and the fittings—those are usually the first spots to go from “small drip” to “Niagara Falls.” A lot of people slap some tape or epoxy on a pinhole leak and call it good, but that’s really just buying yourself time, not solving anything. I’ve even seen people wrap towels around pipes thinking that’ll do the trick, but all it does is mask how bad it’s getting.
One thing I always tell folks: if you’re seeing rust around the base or on the connections, that’s your cue to start planning for a new heater. No patch is going to stop corrosion once it’s started eating through. And if you ever hear popping or banging noises from the tank, that’s sediment build-up—another sign it’s on its last legs.
I get wanting to avoid a big bill, but sometimes biting the bullet early saves you from way worse down the line. Trust me, replacing soggy drywall is way more of a headache than swapping out a heater. If you absolutely have to wait, at least shut off the water supply when you’re not home or overnight. It’s not perfect, but it might save you if something gives out while you’re not around.
Anyway, just my two cents after seeing way too many “temporary” fixes turn into all-day cleanup jobs.
