tanks don’t give second chances.
That’s the truth. I get wanting to stretch things out, but once rust shows up, it’s usually game over for the tank. Here’s my two cents:
1. Check if the rust is just on fittings or actually on the tank itself. Fittings can sometimes be swapped, but tank rust means it’s time to move on.
2. If you’re replacing, look into high-efficiency or heat pump models—they use less energy and last longer.
3. Don’t forget to recycle the old one. Most scrap yards will take them.
Trying to patch a rusty tank is like taping up a leaky garden hose...it’ll just come back to bite you.
Trying to patch a rusty tank is like taping up a leaky garden hose...it’ll just come back to bite you.
Maybe I’m just stubborn, but I’ve actually seen a few “patched” tanks limp along for another year or two. Not saying it’s ideal, but if the rust is minor and you’re in a pinch, there are some epoxy kits that can buy you time. Just depends how desperate you are to avoid a cold shower. Anyone else ever try the “band-aid” route before giving up?
I’ve done the “band-aid” fix on a water heater before—used a two-part epoxy putty and some sandpaper. It actually held for about eight months, which was longer than I expected, but I was checking for leaks every week like a paranoid raccoon. Honestly, if the rust is just surface-level and you’re not ready to shell out for a new tank, it’s worth a shot. Just don’t get too comfy... once the rust gets through, it’s game over.
Honestly, I’ve seen that epoxy trick work in a pinch, but it’s always a gamble. Here’s how I’d break it down:
- If you’re seeing rust on the outside, there’s a good chance it’s worse inside. Water heaters rust from the inside out, so by the time you spot it, the tank’s probably already on borrowed time.
- Epoxy and sandpaper can buy you a few months, maybe a year if you’re lucky. But you’ll be living with that “is today the day it bursts?” feeling. Not fun, especially if you’re not home when it finally gives out.
- If you’re tight on cash or waiting for a sale, I get the temptation to patch it. Just keep a close eye on it, like you said. Maybe put a pan underneath if you haven’t already, just in case.
- If you’ve got any signs of leaking around the base, or if the rust is more than just a little surface spot, I’d lean toward replacing. Once the tank wall is compromised, it’s just a matter of time before you’ve got a mess on your hands.
I’ve seen folks try to stretch it out and end up with water damage that costs way more than a new heater would’ve. If you’re handy, swapping out a tank isn’t the worst DIY job, but yeah, it’s a chunk of change upfront.
One thing I’d add—if you do replace, check the anode rod every couple years. That’s what’s supposed to take the hit from corrosion, not the tank itself. Most people never touch it and wonder why their heater rusts out early.
Anyway, patching works for a bit, but I wouldn’t get too comfortable. If you start seeing rust flakes in your hot water or the patch starts weeping, it’s time to bite the bullet.
If you’re seeing rust on the outside, there’s a good chance it’s worse inside.
That’s been my experience too—by the time you notice rust, you’re already on borrowed time. Curious, have you ever actually had a patched tank last more than a year? I’ve never seen one make it that long.
