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Rusty water heater woes—repair or replace?

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Posts: 10
(@mmitchell17)
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Replacing the anode rod isn't too bad, but honestly, it can be a bit stubborn depending on how old your heater is. When I did mine, the hardest part was getting enough leverage to loosen it—I ended up borrowing a breaker bar from my neighbor because my regular wrench just wasn't cutting it. Also, heads up: have some plumber's tape handy for the new rod threads. Learned that one the hard way...drip drip drip. Good luck!

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karenc70
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(@karenc70)
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Good tip about the plumber's tape—I definitely would've overlooked that. Last weekend, I tackled a leaky faucet thinking it'd be a quick fix, but three trips to the hardware store later...lesson learned. Homeownership is basically just collecting tools you never knew existed, right?

Anyway, I'm curious—how did you know it was specifically the anode rod causing your rust issue? My water heater's pushing 10 years now, and the water occasionally has this faint rusty tint. Nothing alarming yet, but enough to make me wonder if it's time to start looking into repairs or replacements. Did you do any tests beforehand or just assume based on age and symptoms? I'm all for DIY adventures, but I'd rather not wrestle with stubborn bolts unless I'm pretty sure it's going to solve my problem.

Also, speaking of leverage—would a regular breaker bar from an auto toolkit do the trick, or is there something specific for plumbing that's better suited? I've got one lying around somewhere from when I changed my car tires last winter...but knowing my luck, plumbing probably requires some special magic wrench.

Appreciate all the insight here; it's making my first-time homeowner panic slightly more manageable.

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breezem45
Posts: 6
(@breezem45)
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You're definitely not alone with the multiple hardware store trips—been there more times than I'd like to admit. As for knowing it's the anode rod, I didn't do any fancy tests, just went by age and symptoms mostly. My heater was around 9 years old, and the water had that same faint rusty tint you're describing. Pulled out the rod and sure enough, it was corroded down to almost nothing.

About leverage, your breaker bar from the auto kit should actually work fine. Plumbing-specific breaker bars exist, but honestly they're pretty similar. The main thing is getting enough torque without damaging anything. Just make sure you have a good socket that fits snugly—rounded bolts are no fun at all.

If you're hesitant about wrestling with stubborn bolts (totally understandable), maybe spray some penetrating oil on it the night before. Saved me a lot of grief last time I tackled mine. Good luck—you've got this!

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Posts: 5
(@max_storm)
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"If you're hesitant about wrestling with stubborn bolts (totally understandable), maybe spray some penetrating oil on it the night before."

Definitely agree with this advice—penetrating oil can be a lifesaver. I'd also suggest turning off the power and water supply completely before you start working. Seems obvious, but you'd be surprised how many people overlook it in the heat of the moment (speaking from experience here...).

One thing I'd add is to check the condition of the tank itself once you've got the anode rod out. If there's significant rust or sediment buildup inside, replacing just the rod might only buy you a little extra time. At around 9-10 years old, you're approaching that gray area where repairs might not be cost-effective in the long run.

Also, keep an eye out for any signs of leaks or moisture around fittings and valves. Sometimes rusty water is just the first symptom of bigger issues lurking beneath the surface. Better safe than sorry when it comes to water heaters—trust me, water damage is no joke.

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rayhawk132
Posts: 9
(@rayhawk132)
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"At around 9-10 years old, you're approaching that gray area where repairs might not be cost-effective in the long run."

Yeah, totally agree with this. I tried the whole anode rod swap thing on my heater a couple years back—thought I'd save some cash. Turned out the inside of the tank was basically rust city...ended up replacing the whole thing anyway about 6 months later. Wish I'd just bit the bullet from the start.

One other thing to consider is energy efficiency. Even if your current heater isn't leaking yet, newer models can save you quite a bit on energy bills. I noticed a decent drop in my monthly electric bill after upgrading to a newer unit. Plus, peace of mind knowing I'm not gonna wake up to an indoor pool anytime soon makes it worth it, haha.

Just my two cents from someone who's been there and done that. Good luck!

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