Turning sunlight into hot showers: best kits or hacks?

- Totally get the raccoon struggle - mine seem to think anything on the roof is a buffet.
- Tried the hose coil trick too, but between squirrels and sun, it lasted maybe two weeks. Not worth the hassle for me.
- Ended up with a rigid panel kit (EcoSmart, I think), and yeah, it’s not invincible, but at least the critters don’t chew through it as fast.
- PEX lines are a solid call. I wrapped mine in that cheap foam pipe insulation and then duct-taped over the seams. Looks ugly but keeps the heat in and slows down the gnawing.
- Steel wool + caulk is my go-to for gaps too. Not pretty, but it beats waking up to water leaks or worse.
- Honestly, I’m starting to think “critter-proof” is just wishful thinking unless you’re building a bunker.
- One thing I’ll add: if you can run your lines inside as much as possible, do it. The less exposed, the better. Learned that one after a possum chewed through my first setup...

Honestly, I’m starting to think “critter-proof” is just wishful thinking unless you’re building a bunker.

That’s been my experience too. I once tried burying the lines in conduit, thinking it’d be enough, but raccoons managed to pry open the access panel anyway. For anyone considering rigid panel kits, I’d recommend checking the mounting hardware - some kits come with plastic brackets that degrade fast in sun and cold. Swapping those for metal has saved me a lot of headaches. As for insulation, I’ve found that layering foam with aluminum tape holds up better than duct tape alone, especially through winter. It’s not pretty, but it works.

I hear you on the “critter-proof” thing - squirrels chewed through my supposedly rodent-resistant insulation last year, so I’m not convinced there’s any such thing as totally secure. I like your tip about swapping out the plastic brackets for metal ones. I’ve noticed those plastic bits get brittle and snap after a couple of seasons, especially with our freeze-thaw cycles.

I’m curious if anyone’s tried using recycled materials for insulation or mounting? I’ve been eyeing some old aluminum window frames in my garage, wondering if they’d make decent brackets or supports. Not sure how they’d hold up compared to store-bought hardware, but it seems like a good way to keep things out of the landfill.

Also, has anyone experimented with natural insulation - like wool or even straw bales - around their lines or tanks? I know it sounds a bit out there, but I read somewhere that sheep’s wool is naturally water-resistant and insulates well. Not sure how it would stand up to the local wildlife though... maybe just another raccoon snack.

One thing I haven’t quite figured out: is there a way to make access panels that are both critter-resistant and easy to open for maintenance? Every time I try to reinforce mine, it turns into a wrestling match when I need to check for leaks or flush the system. There’s gotta be a balance between Fort Knox and functional.

Anyone else run into issues with condensation inside their insulation layers? My last setup ended up with soggy foam by spring, which kind of defeated the purpose. Wondering if there’s a trick to keeping things dry without trapping moisture inside.

Metal window frames could definitely work for brackets - aluminum’s pretty tough and doesn’t rust, but I’d double-check how much weight they can handle if you’re mounting anything heavy. I’ve tried wool as insulation in a pinch, but mice loved it way too much. For condensation, I’ve had better luck with rigid foam plus a vapor barrier, but it’s not perfect. Has anyone tried venting their insulation layers to let moisture escape, or does that just invite more critters in?

Has anyone tried venting their insulation layers to let moisture escape, or does that just invite more critters in?

Honestly, I’d be careful with venting insulation layers. In my experience, any little opening is like rolling out the red carpet for mice and bugs - especially if you’ve already had issues with them loving wool. I get the idea about moisture, but I’d rather deal with a bit of condensation than another rodent invasion. If you’re worried about trapped moisture, maybe try a closed-cell spray foam instead? It seals up tight and doesn’t give critters anywhere to hide. Just my two cents...

I get where you’re coming from about critters - mice can squeeze through gaps you’d swear were too small for anything but air. But I think there’s a bit more nuance to the venting question, especially when it comes to solar hot water setups. If you’re using something like polyiso or XPS foam, sure, closed-cell is great for keeping out both moisture and pests. But with natural insulation (wool, cotton, even some recycled denim), trapped moisture can really wreck the R-value over time and lead to mold. That’s a different headache altogether.

I’ve seen a few DIY solar water heater builds where people use a “rain screen” approach - basically, they create a ventilated cavity behind the insulation, but then wrap the whole thing in a fine mesh or hardware cloth. It’s not totally critter-proof, but it does cut down on the risk a lot. You still get airflow to dry things out, but you’re not just leaving an open invitation for every mouse in the neighborhood.

One thing I learned the hard way: condensation can be sneaky. I once insulated a batch solar collector with fiberglass and skipped venting, thinking I’d sealed it up tight. By the end of the season, the inside was damp and musty, and the insulation had slumped down. Ended up having to rip it all out and start over. If I’d added even a little passive venting - maybe just a couple of screened holes at the top and bottom - I probably could’ve avoided the mess.

Closed-cell spray foam is definitely a solid option if you’re not worried about off-gassing or cost, but it’s not always practical for every project. Sometimes a hybrid approach works best: use foam where you can, and vented natural insulation elsewhere, but always with some kind of barrier to keep the wildlife out. It’s a balancing act, for sure.

Venting’s important, no doubt, but I’ve had issues with the “rain screen” method in really humid climates. Sometimes that extra airflow just brings in more damp air, and it never fully dries out. I actually had better luck sealing everything up tight and using rigid foam, even if it meant dealing with the cost. Less fuss over time, less maintenance. Guess it depends on your local weather and how much you want to tinker later.

Yeah, I hear you on the rain screen thing. Down here, the humidity just hangs in the air, so all that venting sometimes feels like it’s just inviting more moisture in. I ended up sealing up tight too, with rigid foam and a ton of caulk. It’s not cheap, but honestly, I’d rather pay up front than deal with rot or mold later. Maintenance is way less of a headache now. Guess it’s one of those “know your climate” deals - what works in one spot can be a total pain somewhere else.

I get what you mean about sealing things up - humidity’s a beast where I am too, and I’ve definitely fought my share of mold. Switching gears a bit, have you tried any solar water heating setups in your climate? I’ve been eyeing those DIY kits with the black hose coils, but I’m not sure how well they’d hold up with all the moisture and heat. Wondering if anyone’s had luck making one that doesn’t just turn into a science experiment after a few months...

I tried the black hose coil thing last summer, and let’s just say it turned into a hot mess - literally. The water got scalding mid-afternoon, but the hoses started to get slimy inside after a couple months. Maybe it was all the humidity? I ended up scrubbing them out more than I actually used the hot water. Has anyone managed to keep those things clean long-term, or is there some trick I missed? I keep wondering if switching to copper pipe would help, or if that’s just overkill for backyard showers...

I ended up scrubbing them out more than I actually used the hot water.

Been there. The slime is usually biofilm from stagnant water and heat - black hoses are notorious for it. Copper would definitely cut down on that, but it’s pricey and a pain to bend unless you’ve got the right tools. I tried PVC painted black once, thinking it’d be easier to clean, but it warped in the sun after a few weeks. Honestly, unless you’re using it daily and flushing it out, plastic setups just seem to get gross fast. Maybe a clear flush-out every couple days helps, but I haven’t found a perfect hack yet.

I’ve been wrestling with the same thing since moving in - thought I was clever using a long black garden hose for a “solar shower,” but after a week it was like cleaning out a science experiment. I get what you mean about copper being a pain, though. I looked into PEX tubing too, but I’m not sure how well it holds up in direct sun over time.

Has anyone tried those solar camp shower bags? They seem easier to clean, but I wonder if they’re just as bad for slime if you leave water sitting in them. Or maybe it’s just inevitable unless you’re draining and refilling constantly. I keep thinking there’s gotta be a way to rig up something low-maintenance that doesn’t turn into a petri dish... Maybe some kind of filter or UV light in the loop? Not sure if that’s overkill for backyard showers, though.

- Had a tenant try the solar camp shower bags last summer - worked fine for a couple weeks, but yeah, slime built up fast if they didn’t empty them daily.
- PEX is great for plumbing inside, but direct sun really does a number on it over time. Gets brittle and cloudy.
- UV filter sounds cool, but honestly, might be more hassle than it’s worth for just rinsing off after yard work.
- I’ve seen folks use black-painted metal barrels with a spigot - easier to scrub out and less plastic gunk.

Ever thought about just running a quick bleach rinse through whatever setup you use every week or so? Not perfect, but it helps keep the funk down...

- Tried the solar bags myself a couple summers ago - funny how fast they go from “hey, this is genius” to “why does it smell like pond water?” if you skip a day.
- Black-painted barrels are old-school, but honestly, scrubbing those out is a workout. I once found a frog living in mine. Gave up and switched to a 5-gallon bucket with a cheap garden sprayer - less capacity, but way less cleaning drama.
- PEX in the sun... yeah, learned that the hard way. Left a coil on the roof for two months and it turned into crunchy spaghetti. Not my finest DIY moment.
- Bleach rinse is solid, but I get lazy. Sometimes I just dump a kettle of boiling water in and hope for the best. Not exactly science, but it keeps the green fuzz at bay.

Honestly, I think half the fun is seeing how long you can go before the setup turns into a biology experiment.

I get the appeal of the 5-gallon bucket and sprayer (less scrubbing, fewer amphibian squatters), but I actually went the opposite direction. After a few too many “is this water or soup?” moments with smaller setups, I bit the bullet and rigged up a closed-loop system using a black irrigation pipe coil inside an old glass shower door frame. It’s a pain to set up, but the glass traps heat like crazy, and since it’s sealed, there’s way less algae or weird smells. I just flush it every couple weeks with vinegar water - no bleach fumes, and it seems to keep things pretty clean.

I tried the boiling water trick before, but I always worried about melting something or cracking plastic. Maybe I’m just paranoid after watching my neighbor’s rain barrel buckle from thermal shock last year... Anyway, the glass frame is overkill for most people, but if you’re into tinkering and don’t mind a little upfront work, it’s been surprisingly low maintenance for me. The only downside: moving it is a two-person job, and my back reminds me every time.

Not knocking the glass frame idea - definitely clever - but I’ve always been a little wary of any setup that’s heavy or awkward to move. I get that it keeps the gunk down, but for me, the hassle of shifting a big glass panel just isn’t worth it. Plus, I’ve seen what happens when someone drops one of those old shower doors... not pretty.

If you’re worried about algae and smells, I’ve had good luck with just using black poly tubing coiled up on a pallet and covered with a cheap clear tarp. It’s not as efficient at holding heat as glass, but it’s way lighter, and you can just roll it up if you need to move it. For cleaning, I run a bit of hydrogen peroxide through every month or so - no bleach, no vinegar smell, and it seems to keep things from getting slimy.

I guess it comes down to how much you want to tinker versus how much you want to lift. I’d rather swap out a $20 coil than risk my back or a trip to urgent care.

That’s a good point about the weight - glass panels always make me nervous, too. I’ve seen one shatter in a garage and it was a nightmare to clean up. The poly tubing idea sounds way more practical, especially if you’re moving stuff around or just want to experiment. Have you noticed much difference in water temp compared to glass? I’m curious if the tarp makes up for the lower insulation or if it’s just “warm enough.” Also, does the hydrogen peroxide ever mess with the tubing over time? Just wondering if it makes the plastic brittle or anything.

I actually switched from glass to poly tubing last summer after a cracked panel left glass everywhere in my driveway - total headache. With the poly, I did notice the water doesn’t get quite as hot as it did with the glass setup, especially on cloudy days or late afternoons. The black tarp underneath helps a bit, but it’s more “pretty warm” than “steaming hot.” Still, it’s enough for a decent shower and way less stress about breakage.

About hydrogen peroxide - I’ve been adding a splash every week or so to keep algae down. Haven’t seen any brittleness or clouding in the tubing after a full season. Maybe if you went heavy with it, but at low concentrations it seems fine. If anything, the sun does more damage over time than the peroxide. I just try to coil the tubing up when not in use to keep it out of direct sun as much as possible.

Can definitely relate to the stress of glass - had a similar disaster with a solar water heater years ago. Poly tubing is a lot more forgiving, even if it doesn’t turn your shower into a sauna. I’ve found wrapping the coils tighter and stacking them in layers (sort of like a big coil cake) helps bump up the temp a bit, especially if you throw another black tarp over the top when the sun’s out. Still, you’re right, on cloudy days it’s more “lukewarm encouragement” than “spa day.”

I’ve been cautious with additives like peroxide too. A little goes a long way, and I’d rather clean out the tubing every few weeks than risk it getting brittle. UV from the sun seems to do most of the aging anyway - mine starts to get that faded look after a couple seasons no matter what. If you’re handy with a staple gun, tacking up some shade cloth when it’s not in use keeps things from getting cooked. Not fancy, but hey, it saves money for better shower soap...

I’ve wondered about the peroxide thing too - seems like it could be more trouble than it’s worth if it starts breaking down the tubing. Have you tried any of those UV-resistant poly tubes? I’ve seen some rated for longer outdoor exposure, but not sure if they actually hold up better. Also, curious if anyone’s managed to get decent temps on a partly cloudy day without going full greenhouse mode... is there a trick I’m missing, or is that just the limit with these setups?