Can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to undo someone’s “quick fix” under a rental—usually after a tenant calls about a weird smell or, worse, a burst pipe. I’m with you on the poly up the wall; I go even higher if I’ve got the room. And those miracle coatings? Had one tenant swear by some “waterproof paint” he slathered on the crawlspace wall. Six months later, it was peeling like sunburn and the humidity was worse than ever. Sometimes folks just don’t want to believe that the boring, old-school way is the one that actually works.
Miracle coatings are the bane of my existence. Folks think a can of “waterproof” paint is gonna solve decades of moisture issues, but it just traps the problem behind a shiny layer. I’ve seen crawlspaces where the paint’s bubbling off and you can smell the mustiness before you even open the hatch.
I get why people want shortcuts—nobody wants to rip out drywall or dig up a slab—but there’s no substitute for proper drainage and vapor barriers. Poly up the wall, sure, but if you don’t address grading or leaks, you’re just putting a Band-Aid on a broken leg.
And don’t get me started on those “quick fixes” with flex tape or mystery sealants. I once found a pipe wrapped in duct tape and plastic bags... lasted about two weeks before it let go and flooded the whole laundry room. Sometimes boring is best—code exists for a reason, even if it’s not flashy.
Title: Making sure your home’s pipes are up to code—how I do it
I hear you on those miracle fixes. When we bought our place last year, I found “waterproof” paint all over the basement walls. Looked great until the first big rain—then the paint started peeling and there was this weird, damp smell that just wouldn’t quit. Made me pretty nervous, honestly.
I ended up going full checklist mode. First, I checked the grading outside and made sure water was running away from the foundation. Then I poked around for any obvious leaks or drips inside. Found one spot where someone had tried to patch a pinhole in a copper pipe with tape and some kind of goo... not exactly reassuring.
My approach now is: 1) Find the actual source of moisture, 2) Fix the leak or drainage issue for real, and 3) Only after that, think about sealing things up. It’s not the fastest way, but at least I sleep better knowing I’m not just covering up a bigger problem. Those quick fixes might work in a pinch, but I’d rather do it right and not worry about waking up to a flooded basement.
That checklist approach makes a lot of sense—definitely better than just slapping on another coat of paint and hoping for the best. I’ve run into those “creative” pipe repairs too... once found a garden hose clamped onto a copper line as a “fix.” Still not sure how that didn’t leak more.
One thing I’m always unsure about is how to tell if older pipes are actually up to code, especially in houses that have had a bunch of DIY work over the years. Do you have a way to check if the materials or connections are legit, or do you just look for obvious issues? I’ve read that some codes change over time, so I’m never totally sure what’s grandfathered in and what needs updating.
Honestly, I’ve seen some wild stuff—once found duct tape holding together a drain trap. Here’s how I usually check for code compliance in older homes:
- Look for pipe stamps or markings (copper, PEX, etc.) to ID material and grade.
- Check fittings—DIY jobs often use the wrong connectors or skip proper supports.
- Compare visible work to current code (local codes can be found online), but yeah, grandfathering gets tricky.
- If it looks sketchy or non-standard (like that garden hose), it’s probably not up to code.
If I’m unsure, I’ll reference the year the house was built and look up what was allowed then. Sometimes you just have to trust your gut—if it looks like a shortcut, it probably is.
