Honestly, those tight spaces are the worst. I’ve had a couple times where the PEX tool barely fit behind the joists, especially when you’re trying to get a clean crimp. Ever try using push-to-connect fittings in those spots, or do you stick with crimp rings even in awkward corners?
Tight spots are where you really earn your lunch, huh? I’ve had my fair share of wrestling matches with the crimp tool behind a joist or two. One time, I dropped the tool and it bounced off a pipe, nearly took out my kneecap—felt like the house was fighting back.
I’ll admit, I’ve used push-to-connects in a pinch, especially when there’s just no way to get the crimper in there without turning into a contortionist. They’re not my first choice for every job—call me old school, but I trust a good crimp ring more for long-term peace of mind. Still, those push-fits have saved my bacon more than once. Just gotta make sure the pipe’s clean and square, or you’ll be back in that crawlspace cursing yourself later.
Funny how the “easy” jobs always seem to end up with you wedged between ductwork and spiderwebs, huh?
One time, I dropped the tool and it bounced off a pipe, nearly took out my kneecap—felt like the house was fighting back.
Crimp rings definitely feel more solid, but I’ve actually started leaning on push-to-connects a bit more, especially in those “wedged between ductwork and spiderwebs” situations. I get the concern about long-term reliability, but if you follow the manufacturer’s prep steps—clean, deburr, mark insertion depth—they’re surprisingly dependable. I’ve seen a few old crimp rings fail from corrosion where water sat, so sometimes it’s not just about the connection type but also the pipe’s age and condition. Safety-wise, I’d rather use a push-fit than risk a bad crimp in a spot I can barely reach.
Safety-wise, I’d rather use a push-fit than risk a bad crimp in a spot I can barely reach.
Totally get that—nothing like trying to crimp behind a furnace and realizing you’ve got T-Rex arms. I’ll admit, push-to-connects have saved my bacon more than once when I was wedged under a sink with about six inches of clearance and a flashlight between my teeth. Still, I’ve seen some sketchy installs where folks skipped the “clean and deburr” part and ended up with leaks months later. Guess it’s like anything—shortcut the prep, pay for it later.
I hear you on the push-fits—sometimes they’re the only thing that makes sense, especially in those nightmare crawlspaces. But I’ve learned to be a little paranoid after dealing with a couple of hidden leaks that turned into ceiling stains and tenant headaches.
- Had a spot behind a water heater where a previous owner used push-fits and skipped deburring. Looked fine for about a year, then I got the dreaded “dripping sound” call. Ended up tearing out drywall just to track it down.
- Now, if I can’t get proper access for a crimp or solder, I’ll use push-fit, but I’m borderline obsessive about cleaning and checking for burrs first.
- If the pipe’s old and crusty (especially galvanized), I usually just bite the bullet and swap out the whole run instead of patching. Too many times I’ve fixed one leak only to have another pop up down the line.
Shortcuts seem tempting until you’re paying for repairs later… or worse, dealing with insurance. Sometimes it’s just worth the hassle upfront.
