I’ll admit, I used to side-eye push-to-connect stuff, but after wrestling with a torch under my sink (and nearly setting a towel on fire), I gave them a shot. Here’s what worked for me: dry fit everything twice, deburr like your life depends on it, and don’t cheap out on the fittings. Still, if you’ve got ancient pipes or weird corrosion, nothing beats old-school copper—at least you know it’ll last. Just wish the “easy” route didn’t always cost more per fitting...
Just wish the “easy” route didn’t always cost more per fitting...
- Couldn’t agree more about the price tag on push-to-connect. Every time I do a unit turnover, I wince at the receipt for those fittings. But, like you said, wrestling with a torch under a cabinet is a whole different headache—especially if you’re in a tight spot or dealing with old wood.
- Dry fitting and deburring are non-negotiable. I’ve seen leaks from folks skipping those steps, thinking the “push” part means you can just jam it on and walk away. Not worth the call-back.
- On ancient pipes: sometimes those push-to-connects won’t grip well if there’s too much corrosion or out-of-round copper. In those cases, I still break out the torch and sweat on a new stub-out. It’s messier, but at least you know it’s solid.
- For what it’s worth, I’ve had some push-to-connects last 8+ years with zero issues. Not as long as copper, but not bad for quick fixes or emergencies.
You’re not alone in the sticker shock, but sometimes paying for convenience is just the cost of keeping your sanity (and your towels unburned).
Honestly, I’ve had more than one “torch under the cabinet” moment where I thought I’d set my eyebrows on fire. Push-to-connect is pricey, but sometimes it’s worth it just to avoid crawling around with a lighter and a prayer. Still, nothing beats a solid sweat joint if you’ve got the time and patience. Just depends how much you value your knuckles (and your nerves) that day.
- Push-to-connect is convenient, but I’ve seen a few too many slow leaks crop up a year or two down the line.
- Sweat joints are solid, sure, but under a cramped sink? Not my favorite spot for open flame, especially with old wood cabinets.
- Honestly, compression fittings are underrated. Cheaper than push-to-connect, easier than sweating, and if you torque them right, they’ll last ages.
- I get the appeal of “set it and forget it” with push-to-connect, but I’d rather spend a few extra minutes with a wrench than trust plastic teeth to hold back water long-term.
- At the end of the day, it’s about what you’re comfortable with... but I’d double-check those push-fits every so often if you go that route.
Compression fittings have been my go-to for under-sink repairs, especially in tight spots where sweating pipes just isn’t practical. I’ve had a few push-to-connects start weeping after a year or two—nothing catastrophic, but enough to make me cautious. If you’re comfortable with a couple wrenches and taking your time to get the ferrule seated right, compression is hard to beat for reliability. Just don’t overtighten or you’ll end up with a different headache. I’d only reach for push-to-connect if I needed a super quick fix and planned to keep an eye on it.
