It’s wild how much of the cost is just labor and “peace of mind.” The lines and valves themselves aren’t too pricey, but if you get someone in to do it, they’ll charge for every minute. I swapped my own a while back—took maybe 30 minutes, but I spent more time making sure the connections were tight and nothing was pinched. Those saddle valves are junk, totally agree. If you’re handy, it’s not a bad DIY job, just don’t rush the fittings or you’ll end up with a mess later.
Those saddle valves are junk, totally agree. If you’re handy, it’s not a bad DIY job, just don’t rush the fittings or you’ll end up with a mess later.
I’ll second the bit about saddle valves being garbage. They’re basically a shortcut for installers who want to be in and out fast, but they almost always end up leaking down the line. If you’re going to swap out an ice maker or even just the supply line, it’s worth replacing those with a proper tee and a real shutoff valve. Compression fittings are a lot more reliable, and you won’t have to worry about a slow drip ruining your floor in a year or two.
As for the cost, it’s kind of a classic case of “you’re paying for what you don’t know.” Plumbers have overhead, insurance, and they’re on the hook if something goes sideways. That said, if you’re even a little bit comfortable with basic plumbing, swapping out the line and the valve is about as straightforward as it gets. I’ve replaced a couple myself—took longer to move the fridge and clean up behind it than to actually do the connections. Just make sure to use a flashlight and check for leaks after you turn the water back on. Sometimes it’s not obvious right away if something’s weeping.
One thing I’d add: don’t cheap out on the supply line. Those plastic ones that come in some kits are notorious for splitting, especially if they get kinked when you push the fridge back. Go for braided stainless if you can. It’s a couple bucks more but way less hassle in the long run.
Honestly, unless your house has some weird plumbing setup or you’re really not comfortable with tools, there’s not much reason to pay a pro $200+ for half an hour of work. Just take your time, double-check your connections, and keep a towel handy in case you get a little surprise when you open the valve.
Had a customer once who insisted on keeping their saddle valve because “it’s worked for 15 years.” Sure enough, two weeks after I swapped the ice maker, they called back with water all over the floor. If you’re going to do it, just bite the bullet and put in a real valve. It’s not rocket science, but you do need to double-check for leaks—sometimes those compression fittings need a little extra snug after things settle. And yeah, those plastic lines? I don’t trust them for anything.
Yeah, the saddle valves are a headache waiting to happen. I get why folks want to keep them—if it ain’t broke, right? But honestly, swapping an ice maker isn’t just plug-and-play. You’re paying for the labor to deal with old plumbing, possible leaks, and sometimes even running a new line if the old one’s sketchy. Those plastic lines especially... I’ve seen ‘em split out of nowhere. Copper or braided is worth the extra few bucks every time.
- Been there, done that with those plastic lines. Thought I was being clever and saving a buck—next thing I know, tiny waterfall behind the fridge.
- Swapping out an ice maker always sounds like a quick job... until you’re lying on the floor, flashlight in your mouth, cursing whoever invented saddle valves.
- Copper lines are my go-to now. Costs a bit more up front but way less drama down the road.
- Honestly, the labor is worth it just to avoid mopping up leaks at 2am.
