I’ve noticed the same thing with compression fittings—people just crank them down way too hard. I actually messed up my first one because I thought “tighter = better,” but nope, just ended up with a split nut and a slow drip. Push-to-connects felt sketchy at first, but after seeing how they hold up (as long as you deburr and measure right), I’m way less nervous about using them.
Curious if anyone’s tried mixing push-to-connects with PEX for under-sink setups? I’ve only done copper so far, but PEX seems like it could save even more time and money... or am I missing something?
Mixing push-to-connects with PEX under the sink is honestly a game changer. I’ve swapped out copper for PEX in a few rentals, and it’s saved me a ton of time and headaches. The flexibility is great for tight spots, and as long as you use a proper cutter and make sure the ends are clean, leaks are rare. Only thing I’d watch out for is making sure you’re using the right fittings for potable water—some of the cheaper ones out there aren’t rated for it. Otherwise, I’d never go back to all-copper for under-sink stuff unless I had to match existing lines.
Mixing push-to-connects with PEX under the sink is honestly a game changer. I’ve swapped out copper for PEX in a few rentals, and it’s saved me a ton of time and headaches.
- Swapping out copper for PEX was probably the best “unseen” upgrade I’ve done in my kitchen. The cost difference alone is wild—copper prices these days are no joke.
- For my last kitchen sink, I spent about $70 on PEX, push-to-connects, and a cutter (already had the crimp tool from a previous project). That’s less than half what I would’ve paid for copper and sweat fittings, not even counting the time saved.
- Tight spaces under the sink are where PEX really shines. I’ve got a garbage disposal and a water filter crammed in there, so being able to bend the lines around corners without kinking is a lifesaver.
- I do get a little paranoid about leaks, though. Even though, like you said, “as long as you use a proper cutter and make sure the ends are clean, leaks are rare,” I still find myself checking for drips every couple days after a new install. Old habits die hard.
- One thing I’ll push back on: I actually had a push-to-connect fitting fail once because I cheaped out and bought a no-name brand online. Lesson learned—now I stick to SharkBite or Apollo for anything that touches drinking water. The peace of mind is worth the extra few bucks.
- If you’re doing a full sink replacement, don’t forget to factor in the cost of new shutoff valves. Mine were ancient and didn’t close all the way, so that was another $20 or so.
All in, I think my last under-sink job (PEX, push-to-connects, valves) ran me about $90. Not exactly pocket change, but way less than calling a plumber. Plus, I didn’t have to break out the torch and fire extinguisher this time... always a win in my book.
I do get a little paranoid about leaks, though. Even though, like you said, “as long as you use a proper cutter and make sure the ends are clean, leaks are rare,” I still find myself checking for drips every couple days after a new install. Old habits die hard.
That’s not paranoia—it’s just good practice. I’ve seen too many “quick” PEX jobs go sideways because someone rushed the prep or used off-brand fittings. I had a call last year where a push-to-connect fitting popped off under pressure and flooded the cabinet... turns out it was a knockoff brand. Like you said, stick with SharkBite or Apollo and always double-check your cuts. It’s not the cheapest route, but it beats coming back to water damage.
Honestly, I’m the same way—can’t help but check for leaks even when I know I did everything right. It’s just not worth risking a surprise puddle under the sink. Those “quick fixes” always seem to come back and bite you, don’t they?
