The rubber ones seem to need everything perfectly lined up or they just don’t seal right—at least in my experience.
That lines up with what I’ve seen. If the flange isn’t dead level, rubber gaskets can be a pain. For uneven floors, I’ll usually stack two wax rings—one with the plastic horn, one plain. Just gotta watch for squeeze-out. And yeah, metal detector before planing reclaimed wood is a must... I’ve trashed more than one set of blades skipping that step.
For uneven floors, I’ll usually stack two wax rings—one with the plastic horn, one plain. Just gotta watch for squeeze-out.
I’ve done the double wax ring trick too, but I always worry about long-term leaks if things settle later. Ever tried those extra-thick wax rings instead? I started using them after a tenant managed to shift a toilet just enough to break the seal—ended up with water damage in the ceiling below. Curious if anyone’s had luck with those foam gaskets for tricky installs?
Title: When the Toilet Floods at Midnight: My DIY Save
I’ve done the double wax ring trick too, but I always worry about long-term leaks if things settle later. Ever tried those extra-thick wax rings instead?
Stacking wax rings is one of those things that works... until it doesn’t. I’ve seen more than a few “midnight floods” where someone thought two rings would be better than one, only to end up with a slow leak months down the line. The problem is, wax isn’t really meant to flex or compress over time—if the toilet rocks even a little, you’re asking for trouble.
Those extra-thick wax rings are a step up, but honestly, they’re still just more wax. If your flange is way below floor level, it’s a band-aid at best. I’ve had better luck using a flange extender kit to bring everything up flush and then using a single good-quality wax ring. Less chance of shifting or uneven compression that way.
As for foam gaskets—like the Sani-Seal ones—I was skeptical at first. Tried them on a couple of jobs where the floor was out of whack and couldn’t get the flange raised easily. They’re definitely easier to work with (no sticky mess), and they seem to handle minor movement better than wax. But I still don’t trust them for every install. If there’s any wobble in the toilet or if the floor’s really uneven, you’re still risking a bad seal eventually.
Had one job in an old rental where nothing was square—floor sloped, flange half-rotted, you name it. Used a foam gasket as a last resort after three failed wax attempts. It held up for two years before the tenant called about a “weird smell.” Turns out it was seeping just enough to cause mold under the tile. Not catastrophic, but not great either.
Long story short: nothing beats getting that flange level and solid in the first place. All these tricks are just workarounds for when you can’t fix what’s really wrong. Wax, foam, whatever—you’re rolling the dice if you don’t have a stable base.
And yeah, water damage from a leaky toilet is no joke... especially when it’s coming through someone’s ceiling at 2am.
Long story short: nothing beats getting that flange level and solid in the first place. All these tricks are just workarounds for when you can’t fix what’s really wrong.
Couldn’t agree more. I tried the “just add more wax” method once and it ended up leaking under the floorboards. Had to rip out some pretty new tile—total waste, plus not exactly eco-friendly. Now I always check the flange and subfloor before anything else. It’s more work upfront, but way less hassle (and waste) later.
I hear you on the wax ring thing. I actually thought I could get away with one of those “extra thick” wax rings when I found my flange was a bit low. It kinda worked… for about six months, until it didn’t. Not fun discovering that mess at 2 AM.
Curious—if the flange is sitting below the finished floor, do you guys shim it up or just replace it entirely? I’ve seen some folks stack wax rings, but that seems like asking for trouble. Just wondering if there’s a good fix that doesn’t involve tearing up tile again, or if that’s really the only way to do it right.