I get where you’re coming from on mineral wool, but I’ve actually had better luck with sheep’s wool in my old place. Maybe it’s just the combo of my basement being less damp, but the stuff seemed to “breathe” a bit more and didn’t get that musty smell as fast. I did have to stay on top of moisture, though—no insulation’s gonna win against a full-on swamp. Still, I’d pick wool over fiberglass any day if you’re trying to keep things green and less itchy. For me, the dehumidifier was key too... but I swear by cracked windows when weather allows.
I get where you’re coming from on mineral wool, but I’ve actually had better luck with sheep’s wool in my old place. Maybe it’s just the combo of my basement being less damp, but the stuff ...
I hear you on the sheep’s wool. I’ve worked with mineral wool and fiberglass, and both can be a pain—itchy, awkward to fit around pipes, all that. Sheep’s wool does seem to handle the moisture swings better, though. Still, I’m a bit skeptical about relying on cracked windows for ventilation near a boiler setup. If you’re dealing with any combustion appliances down there, you gotta be careful about backdrafting. Dehumidifier’s definitely the safer bet in my book. That said, I wish more folks would consider natural insulation—less hassle for your skin and lungs.
Cracked windows for boiler ventilation always makes me nervous, especially if you’re trying to keep the heating efficient. I’ve seen folks try to save on dehumidifiers, but in the long run, it’s safer and not that much more expensive if you grab a decent used one. Sheep’s wool is nice for install—doesn’t make you itch for days—but I do wonder about rodent issues over time. Anyone had problems with that? I went with mineral wool mostly for the fire rating, even if it’s a pain to cut around the pipes.
Sheep’s wool is nice for install—doesn’t make you itch for days—but I do wonder about rodent issues over time. Anyone had problems with that? I went with mineral wool mostly for the fire rating, even if it’s a pain to cut around the pipes.
Rodents and sheep’s wool—yeah, that’s a real thing. I’ve seen a couple of jobs where folks used natural wool and ended up with mice tunneling through it after a year or two. It’s not guaranteed, but if you’ve got any gaps or easy access points, they’ll find their way in. Once they’re in, they’ll nest, chew, and leave a mess. Mineral wool’s a lot less appealing to them, and you’re right about the fire rating. That’s a big deal around boilers, especially if you’ve got any questionable wiring or older pipework.
Cutting mineral wool around pipes is a pain, but I’d take that over dealing with rodent droppings and chewed insulation any day. If you’re worried about rodents and still want to use natural fibers, you can try mixing in some steel wool at entry points, but honestly, it’s more of a patch than a fix.
About the cracked window thing—ventilation’s important, but you’re right, it kills your efficiency. If you can swing it, a proper vent or trickle vent is way safer and keeps the heat in. Dehumidifiers help, but only if you’ve got the airflow sorted first. Used ones are fine as long as you check for mold inside the unit—seen a few that just spread more spores than they collect.
If you’re still working around pipes and insulation, a good serrated bread knife works better than most utility blades for mineral wool. Not pretty, but it gets the job done. Just watch your knuckles.
Curious if anyone’s actually had luck keeping rodents out of sheep’s wool long-term? I haven’t seen it work out well, but maybe there’s a trick I missed.
Mineral wool’s been my go-to for the same reasons—rodents just don’t seem interested, and the fire rating gives me peace of mind. I tried sheep’s wool once in a crawlspace, thinking it’d be more eco-friendly, but sure enough, found mouse tunnels after a year. Not worth the hassle or the cleanup. Cutting mineral wool is a pain, but I’ll take that over replacing chewed-up insulation. Bread knife tip is spot on, by the way... way easier than fighting with a utility blade.
