PEX seems less risky if you don’t cut corners... or am I missing something?
I get what you’re saying, but I still worry about PEX fittings behind walls. I’ve seen a couple of installs where the crimp rings weren’t on right and it took a year for the leak to show up. Copper’s a pain, but at least you can usually spot bad solder joints right away. Maybe it’s just what I’m used to, though. Anyone else dealing with hard water? That’s what killed my last copper line.
I’ve had the same worries about PEX fittings buried in walls. The stuff is super easy to work with, but if you mess up a crimp or don’t get a fitting seated just right, it’s not like you’ll notice until it’s too late. Here’s how I look at it:
- With copper, you can usually see if you’ve got a bad solder joint right away—either it leaks or it doesn’t. Plus, you can often hear the sizzle if there’s still water in the line (ask me how I know...).
- PEX is way faster and more forgiving, especially in tight spaces. But yeah, those crimp rings can be tricky if you’re not careful. I double-check every single one now, and I’ve started using the expansion-style fittings for anything behind drywall—less risk of a bad seal.
- Hard water is brutal on copper. My old house had pinhole leaks all over after about 15 years. Switched to PEX and haven’t seen any issues since, but I do worry about what happens 20 years down the road.
- If you’re doing a walk-in shower, you might have some access panels or removable sections—worth considering if you want peace of mind.
- For what it’s worth, plumbers around here seem to prefer PEX for remodels now, unless someone insists on copper.
I get feeling more confident with what you know. After chasing leaks in both systems, my trust level is about the same... just different kinds of headaches. If you go PEX, maybe pressure-test everything before closing up the walls? That’s saved me once already.
If you go PEX, maybe pressure-test everything before closing up the walls? That’s saved me once already.
Pressure testing is a must, totally agree there. I’ve seen a couple of PEX jobs where a missed crimp didn’t show up until months later—nightmare scenario. Curious if anyone’s tried those push-to-connect fittings (like SharkBite) behind walls? I know code says accessible only, but I’ve seen folks sneak them in. Worth the risk, or just asking for trouble down the line?
I get why people use SharkBite behind walls—super easy, especially if you’re in a hurry or not keen on crimping. But honestly, I wouldn’t risk it. Code says accessible for a reason. I’ve seen a fitting fail after a few years and tracking the leak down was a pain... ended up tearing out drywall anyway. If you want peace of mind, stick to crimp or expansion and make sure every connection is solid before closing things up.
Switching Out a Tub for a Walk-In Shower: Copper vs. PEX Pipes?
Totally get the hesitation with SharkBite behind walls. I actually tried one in a spot I could reach, just to see if it’d hold up, and after two years it started seeping. Not a flood, but enough to make me rethink using them anywhere I can’t easily check.
If you’re on a budget (like me), here’s how I weighed copper vs. PEX when we did our bathroom swap last year:
1. Price out both materials. Copper’s gone up a lot, and the fittings add up fast. PEX is way cheaper per foot, and you don’t need as many fancy tools unless you go with expansion.
2. Figure out your comfort level with tools. Soldering copper isn’t impossible, but it’s not exactly beginner-friendly either—plus, open flames in tight spaces always make me nervous. PEX crimping is pretty straightforward once you get the hang of it, and you can rent the tool from most hardware stores.
3. Think about future access. Like you said, code wants connections accessible for a reason. If you use SharkBite or push-to-connect, at least keep them where you can get at them later. For anything behind drywall, I’d go with PEX crimp or expansion, double-check every joint for leaks before closing up, and maybe even snap a few photos for reference.
4. Don’t forget about supports and bends. PEX is flexible but still needs to be secured so it doesn’t rub on studs or move around over time.
5. If you’re worried about resale value or inspector headaches, copper still has that “tried-and-true” reputation... but honestly, most folks are fine with PEX these days as long as it’s done right.
I guess my main takeaway: spend the extra time on connections now so you don’t have to rip out tile or drywall later. And if you’re really pinching pennies, PEX with crimp rings is hard to beat for price and peace of mind—just skip the SharkBites behind walls unless there’s no other way.
Hope that helps someone else thinking through this stuff... I definitely learned some lessons the hard way!